Quail Paella – Paella con codorniz

Paella is as much event as food, though argument persists about its right and wrong ingredients and the steps of its confection. I can’t conceive of one without imagining it cooked on a bed of coals on a beach. Purists claim pine and orange branches are a must. Rosemary cuttings would do the job, if you had an open fire.

I’ve never been someone to respect rules, culinary or not, but the confusion of variants in print and online means we have as much license as we wish so long as the spirit of the thing is respected. The dish should be not just rustic but hybrid in flavour. The main components, variously seafood, pork, poultry, hot sausage, garden vegetables and spices, should evoke open air and the smack of both chaparral and sea. That said, I have made both pescatarian and herbal vegetarian paellas. They appeared to please those whose personal tastes go that way.

The recipes call for saffron, no problem in our Persian-inflected household where the pestled powder from the stigma of crocus sativus (‘cultivated crocus’) is a staple always on hand. There is no substitute for its particular odour and aura, related chemically to iodine and chloroform. Yet let its absence not keep you from proceeding.

I don’t recall why quail leapt into this particular frying pan but I do know the artichokes followed from their freshness and cheap availability in the market where I shopped that morning.

This procedure might seem epic. It goes quickly with wine to hand.  If the composed paella is kept covered and warm, it can sit for as long as a hour while the guests socialize. And you too.

For a 16 inch pan:

4 or 5 quail cut in half
2 large chorizo-style sausages, e.g. Mexican loganiza
14 jumbo shrimp, perhaps shelled but definitely de-veined
2 1/2 cups of paella rice
2 large artichokes
2 sweet peppers, any colour
1 white onion
5 cloves of chopped garlic
small tin of unsweetened tomato paste (such as the Sadaf brand)
minced lemon zest
flat-leaved parsley torn into pieces
piperón (smoky paprika)
2 cups each of white wine and chicken stock
olive oil
saffranade (pinch of powdered saffron dissolved in a 1/4 cup of hot water)
harissa (to adduce a Moroccan note)
salt and pepper

For the quail rub: tumeric, sumac and oregano muddled in olive oil with salt and pepper

Serves seven

***
Split the quail in half. Wash and pat dry. Imbue
with the rub. Leave an hour or two, keeping cool.
With a serrated blade, cut off the top third
of each artichoke. Trim the stalks and quarter.
Shear off the leaf spines, working in a spiral.
Microwave in the steam of a covered dish
for four minutes. Cool, pry the fibrous chokes out.

In a skillet, not the paella pan itself,
saute the chorizo pieces, extruding
their fat. Put aside. Deglaze the residue.
Add a splash of olive oil. Brown the quail halves,
outer sides first. Do not overcook. Reserve.

In the same skillet make a sofrito of
onion, garlic, parsley,  lemon zest and piperón.
Join in the tomato paste, then wine or stock.
Reduce. Add the rice. Stir-fry at high heat
until glaucous, adding liquids enough to
keep the mixture from sticking or seizing up.
When the grains are opalescent but still hard,
turn in the saffranade. Simmer ten minutes.

Transfer the concoction into the heated
pan. Arrange the quail on their bed of rice,
around them the shrimp, chorizo, sweet peppers
and artichoke sections. Cover. Nothing now
to do until your guests show signs of hunger.
When ready to launch, pass the composition
into a very hot oven for fifteen minutes.

If the grains are not yet soft, add water
as required. Slip briefly back in the oven.
When done, for want of a fire pit on a beach
set the pan onto a stove burner to toast
the bottom layer of rice into a crust
called socarrat, from the Catalan spoken
in the hinterlands around Valencia.

Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley.
Provide harissa on the side. Serve with cool
red wine and paper towels. This food is hands-on.

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The Real Danish Summer

Early August is not my favorite time to travel on the continent, but that is how things have worked out. Apart from Saarbrücken and Vienna, old stomping grounds, we’ll spend a week in Copenhagen. As is my wont when I travel to new places, I’ve taken up Danish. As Humpty-Dumpty said, I mean that what I want it to mean.

I’ve no illusions about what a few months of desultory study will achieve, though probably more will be than thirty years ago, since now I have the help of  the web. Back then there were not even Post-It flags. You actually had to remember how to find something you had once read.

Technological change is a mixed bag.  The social media have mind-numbing and no doubt obesity-producing effects on the gammas, deltas and epsilons of our brave new world. The alphas, that notorious one percent, will continue to reap bounteous wealth therefrom. That’s the way the law’s been writ. 

A beta, e.g. my humble self, nonetheless has much to gain, though not much lucrative. 

Several weeks ago I published a translation from Osip Mandelstam based on a yellowing typescript bearing fading handwritten notations from a Russian friend who shared my sense of poetry. The Danish translations below are instead spin-offs of the internet, its host of search engines and language apps.

The Canadian poet Doug Jones, who passed a few months ago, was a friend and a mentor. I think often of his observation that we are more inclined to like a poem by someone we know than someone we don’t. I have no notion about Henrik Nordbrandt I haven’t extracted from the web. Yet I feel I know both him and the older but roughly contemporary Swedish poet Tomas Tranströmer. The second Nordbrandt version below evokes in my mind the two poems by Tranströmer which I have so far translated (Från juli 90 and Spår). How artificial is this intelligence? Not for me to say. I am inside this box and so cannot run a Turing test on its output.

There is a subtext in Nordbrandt’s Den rigtige dansk sommer, one signaled by his choice of the definite as opposed to the indefinite article in the title and reflected in my own: den rigtige, not en rigtig Danish summer, the real not a real (he does have the latter in the body of his text, where the context is different). Nordbrandt on occasion criticized the notion of danskhed (Danish-ness) as a potentially totalizing construction of Danish identity. To my mind, though, he is after even bigger game. At stake is the concept of “ness-ness”, the seduction, to which we are deeply susceptible, of believing abstractions mean what they appear to say, at least as compared with the chaotic glut of sensual experience, the tumult of psychic life, the pell-mell tumble of language. This dimension of Nordbrandt’s work is reflected in the standard translation by Thom Satterlee, who chose to refer to “summerness” rather than just “summer” in his otherwise carefully literal translation

These versions from the Danish belong in a batch with some of my others by the Portuguese Fernando Pessoa and the Catalan Gabriel Ferrater. See, for example, The Strangest of All or Icons, themselves akin to my “phenomenological” poems linked here. 

Most are also, like Den rigtige dansk sommer, unrhymed or “mute” sonnets.

All of this might sound pedantic. Maybe it is, but what I am really wondering about as I write is what the weather will be in Copenhagen the second week of August.

***

The Real Danish Summer

The real Danish summer will be what this sonnet 
is about, since whatever surrounds us should fit
into not thirteen or fifteen but fourteen verses, 
everything in its proper place, form and content fused,

just as I am myself at one with this summer day,
itself at one with Danishness. Well and perfectly true,
except this poem wouldn’t be itself if it didn’t 
point out that nothing can be one with anything else.

There must be spaces between. Still Danish summer 
is when and where I could best do without myself.
I would have let nature speak in simile on my behalf

had not that mown lawn’s likely words made it risky.
There is a tall, red chimney, the crematorium’s.
What solace to be at long last free of oneself!

After the Danish of Henrik Nordbrandt,
Den rigtige dansk sommer (literal translation)

En rigtig dansk sommer skal være temaet for denne sonnet:
For det må da være rigtigt at det, som omgiver en, ikke skal siges
i tretten eller femten linier, men i fjorten: Sådan vil jeg mene
alting kommer på sin plads, så form og indhold bliver ét
sådan som jeg selv er ét med sommeren
som er ét med danskheden
der er det helt rigtige: Men det ville ikke være dette digt
hvis det ikke påpegede, at ingen kan være ét med noget andet.
Plads skal der være: En rigtig dansk sommer
er nok der hvor jeg bedst kunne undvære mig selv.
Og jeg lod gerne naturen tale på mine vegne, om ikke det vulgære
grønne havde gjort det for pinligt:
Midt i det står en høj rød skorsten: Den hører til krematoriet.
Hvilken trøst langt om længe at blive fri for sig selv!

Distraught Dream

A burst of dust obscured the sun,
spilled down the mountain slopes
to my love
and her lover’s
winter lair.

A footbridge swayed under
my steps as I stumbled 
on without direction.

Just as far over that span
have I come as since childhood,

so death will be met in its place 
somewhere between me now
and those gray shafts on the opposite shore.

(This all lasted less than an instant 
– what rests of being.)

After the Danish of Henrik Nordbrandt,
Drøm om fortvivlelse (literal translation)

En støvet sky gik for solen
og lagde bjergsiden ned
til et vinterleje
for min elskede
og hendes elsker.

En bro gungrede under mine fødder
men mine skridt
havde ingen retning.

Der var lige så langt over broen
som jeg var kommet fra min barndom.

Så døden måtte findes
et sted mellem mig og de grå pile
på den modsatte bred.

Det hele varede mindre end et minut
men resten af verden.