My Black Orpheus

[I’m reposting this ten year old piece which has become oddly relevant again ….]

Marpessa Dawn in Black Orpheus, 1959

I had been meaning to start as follows:

Years ago on what seems another planet and likely one of the first times I was allowed to take our family car out alone,  I drove over to the near north side of Houston to the Al-Ray Theater and saw Black Orpheus. The trailer here  is in French, which I was starting to understand, though the film was in a language I had neverf heard before, Portuguese, which continues to feel like I should always have spoken it. This was before the Al-Ray went porn, slipping, back in the Golden Age of Houston cinema palaces, from “Fellini to Deep Throat,” as a 1975 piece in the Texas Monthly put it (p. 72). At that point in time Houston was already the seventh largest American city with more or less a million within its legal limits, and burgeoning. I have long given up trying to explain that, coming from Houston, I didn’t exactly come from nowhere. 

Before major U.S. distributors began to pick up and monopolize prize-winning foreign films, which thereafter became unaffordable to Al and Ray, the two entrepreneurial brothers who ran the neighborhood movie-house, the Al-Ray was the premier venue for a slew of foreign films. I saw, many at the tender age of eighteen, parsing out and tentatively pronouncing their titles in French and Italian: Les 400 coupsÀ bout de souffleAscenseur pour l’échafaud (where I probably heard Miles Davis for the first time), La dolce vitaL’avventura, Rocco e i suoi fratelli . The last one starred that sex-god, Alain Delon, whom I imagined I resembled, and was so assured by a less-than-objective potential male lover who did not, however, score. Here I want to tell how in a single evening Black Orpheus decisively shaped who I have become. 

I can’t claim I would never have taken up classical guitar without having seen Black Orpheus and then bought the LP, one of the first I owned. There was a guitar in the house, Dad played, so it was perhaps natural that I ended up getting one and taking it to Africa in 1967, this at the same time I began studying Portuguese and where I met my friend Alfredo Pons, a Peace Corps volunteer who played a number of amazing bossa pieces. From the beginning, my guitar repertoire, such as it is, always included the Brazilians, starting with Villa-Lobos. Just this morning I was playing Baden-Powell, his Retrato brasileiro (Brazilian Portrait) and Valsa sem nome (No-name Waltz). Over and over I have returned to the music of that period and, in 2000, I published the article which must now stand as my definitive study of the poetry conveyed therein: Cannibalizing Bossa Nova. A few years later, I had practically set out on a study-tour to Brazil and Venezuela with my guitar on my back in search of the spirit of Bossa Nova, as some overwrought staff writer for University of Alberta Folio put it. Alas, that plan was scotched by my appointment as Dean at Ottawa in 2004. It might yet be revived. 

This just scratches the (musical) surface. First and  foremost, I had never seen and would not for several more years see a film whose cast was black, let alone one whose lead actress was as captivating as Marpessa Dawn, actually born, I learned much later, in Pittsburgh, and part Filipina, though she performed in Portuguese and was considered a French actress. Things are almost always more complicated than we believe. 

I am familiar with academic theories of race and sex, sexualized race, racialized sex, so I know perfectly well Marpessa Dawn was preceded in my psyche by many other black female figures of illicit lust. Her demure beauty nonetheless opened avenues of desire and a mode of yearning I had never conceived of before ….

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I was going to write all that and more, but then, Googling for clips, I discovered that Barack Obama had already addressed the topic in Dreams from My Father. Having merely leafed through his book, I had missed this reference, one well-discussed, I now know, on the internet and which links me not to him — he is young enough to be my son — but to his mother, a woman only three years older than I and with whom I have a strange generational and cultural affinity.

Here is the passage in which Obama describes his reaction to seeing his mother watch what was the first foreign film she had ever seen:

One evening, while thumbing through The Village Voice, my mother’s eyes lit on an advertisement for a movie, Black Orpheus, that was showing downtown. My mother insisted that we go see it that night; she said that it was the first foreign film she had ever seen.

“I was only sixteen then,” she told us as we entered the elevator.  “I’d just been accepted to the University of Chicago – Gramps hadn’t told me yet that he wouldn’t let me go – and I was there for the summer, working as an au pair. It was the first time that I’d ever been really on my own. Gosh, I felt like such an adult. And when I saw this film, I thought it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen.”

We took a cab to the revival theater where the movie was playing. The film, a groundbreaker of sorts due to its mostly black, Brazilian cast, had been made in the fifties. The story line was simple: the myth of the ill-fated lovers Orpheus and Eurydice set in the favelas of Rio during Carnival. In Technicolor splendor, set against scenic green hills, the black and brown Brazilians sang and danced and strummed guitars like carefree birds in colorful plumage. About halfway through the movie, I decided that I’d seen enough, and turned to my mother to see if she might be ready to go. But her face, lit by the blue glow of the screen, was set in a wistful gaze. At that moment, I felt as if I were being given a window into her heart, the unreflective heart of her youth. I suddenly realized that the depiction of childlike blacks I was now seeing on the screen, the reverse image of Conrad’s dark savages, was what my mother had carried with her to Hawaii all those years before, a reflection of the simple fantasies that had been forbidden to a white middle-class girl from Kansas, the promise of another life: warm, sensual, exotic, different.

I turned away, embarrassed for her, irritated with the people around me.

(Dreams from My Father, p. 123 ff)

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I would stand guilty of similar naïveté if accused but, as Obama knew somewhere, he would not have come onto this planet without the desire this film raised in his mother. Obama’s own dreams are from his father, but hers were of the man.  And, lest we forget, his father had his own dreams of her and Obama’s paternal grandfather was absolutely opposed to having “the Obama blood sullied by a white woman” (p. 126).

As for myself, I suspect that without Black Orpheus I would never have shored up in West Africa, guitar by my side and – look down in the lower right-hand corner — my Portuguese language-learning set of LPs at my feet.

 

This photo was deliberately staged, intended to convey several points to the folks back home, for example, those tokens of poetry: the dictionary on the folding chair and the volume of Rimbaud in my hand – Rimbaud, who notoriously abandonned poetry at age twenty and later spent his last years in Africa, a subliminal threat I did not keep.

Framing the miniature kora on the wall across from my guitar made both implicitly interchangeable and hence equal. And, yes, the robe, which I still possess, is gorgeous.  Wearing the clothes of “Others” is not an expression of deviant exoticism, rather of acceptance of them, willingness to share bodily sensations, as it were. There is no embrace more intimate except the one without clothes.

The pathways to understanding others are obscure, unpredictable, fraught with inauthenticity.  If we remain totally and exclusively authentic to our selves as we have already defined them, will we ever be able to learn or to change?

Without Black OrpheusI would probably never would then have gone on to commit to the study and promotion of African and Brazilian and Afro-Caribbean literature (in for example, Entwisted Tongues), plus twenty-five years of involvement in and service to the African Literature Association and its French counterpart, A.P.E.L.A.  Without Black Orpheus, I would never have been able to owe Africa as much as I do, just as Brazil does – and I shall spare you, for now, my comments on how much the U.S. and in particular the South owes Africa, and I am not talking about reparations.

But when, at the end of the film, the next young Orpheus-to-be himself makes the sun rise over Rio by playing Manhã de carnaval, a piece he had learned from the departed Orpheus, the hidden message is not that blacks are child-like with an inborn gift for dancing (Obama notwithstanding), instead that the mythic cycle of desire and loss always begins anew, desire and loss coming garbed in as many guises as there are peoples in world.  

I am lucky to have seen Black Orpheus as a impressionable young adult. Obama is lucky his mother did.

Morocco 2019


Far be it from me to herd the curious into joining Instagram or any social network. I have learned to use them, IG and Twitter and to a lesser extent WhatsApp, as writing tools, media which shape our experience and invite us to express ourselves, though within their own inherent limits. But I have put this page up for those have asked for my impressions of Morocco but are not on Instagram, into whose language and on which platform I kept a travelog of our trip to Morocco.

So follows a compilation of my IG posts during and shortly after our Xmas trip to Morocco. They can be read without signing on to that Facebook-owned medium.

Yes, behind every IG post is a free-floating webpage. In fact, that’s what social media was derived from. Before the advent of Facebook et al, to have a webpage or a blog of our own we had to learn how to write in, originally, HTML. 

I did so starting in 1994. Back then the internet had yet to be captured by venture capital, democratized, commodified. Now it’s also become a rampant source of demogoguery and propaganda, plus a lot of silliness.

A picture is worth a thousand words, goes the adage. I am pretty verbose for someone on Instagram, but I try to get by with under a hundred words per post. 

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Dancing Gnawa in Tangier. I was once a better dancer, but this vid of my jiving in the Caves of Hercules near Tangier was for me a first shock of recognition  that Morocco is indeed part of Africa. In fact, it has had a millennia long relationship with the Sahara and the Sahel, hence my approximate feel for this Sufi-inspired music as someone who spent two years of my twenties living and traveling and yes even dancing in West Africa. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7mmOLzheL-/

Casa 1: Hotel Le Doge. Our modest art deco hotel in Casablanca bills itself as a haven from the surrounding chaos. We deliberately chose to shore up there for four nights to wait out the effects of jetlag. I was happy to be in a French-speaking environment, which I miss sometimes desperately in California. Ironically, we were assigned the Fritz Lang room in this art deco themed hotel. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6P-9iTh62D/

Casa 2: Here is the view from the terrace restaurant and bar of Le Doge, where we repaired regularly in between bouts of drowsy, uneven sleep and sporadic sightseeing. Outside were trees familiar to us from California. In fact, the weather, at least in winter, is similar to that in SoCal. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6TnIQGBGGz/

Casa 3: Near the mock-up of Rick’s Cafe, a favorite watering hole for expats, there is a major site to see in Casablanca, the Hassan II Mosque, the third biggest in the world.  Islam feels to me to be an astonishingly coherent and consistent religion, here emblematized by impressively scaled architecture and the artful design of this monumental mosque. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6VqPCbBwLg/

TGV from Casa to Tangier: I wasn’t kidding when asked before our departure what I was looking forward to in Morocco: I want to take the TGV (Très Grande Vitesse = bullet train ). I wasn’t disappointed. Getting off in the  new terminus in the middle of “Tanger nouveau” was a welcome change from gritty Casa.  https://www.instagram.com/p/B6bHt_IB2rG/

Tangier 1: Another reason I offered before we left as to why we were going to Morocco was: to escape US Christmas. That hope too was not frustrated. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6cPO2GBnjg/

Tangier 2: Xmas morning we met up with Wahid Chmacha, our trusty guide through the rest of the trip. He took us out to the coast along the Straits for a casse-croûte of bessara, a hummus-like dip made from fava beans. Although distant on the horizon, Andalusia, the lost half of Morocco, looms to this day over the Moroccan imagination — much like the Western US in the Mexican mind. In this case, Morocco lost Andalusia, but, I kept thinking as the trip went on, Spain lost the beauties of Morocco, apart from what remains in Grenada and Cordova. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6gOh3VhX1A/

Tangier 3: Spices in the souk of Tangier. The little seedheads in the middle are, Wahid informed me, not technically a spice, rather a source of toothpicks. There is also a baklava-like dessert named for its resemblance to the seedhead which is a feature of Ramadan late evening repasts. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6kTVuEhBvz/.

Tangier 4: The Riad Mokhtar, high up in the casbah or old fortress of Tangier, was virtually empty over Xmas. Here we met Djalo from Guinea-Bissau, a country whose creole I studied. He works as a jack-of-all trades for the French owner. By the time we left he was calling us “family”. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6kVEWbB7HX/

Fez 1: We were lucky to have one of our meals at the Dar d’or, a riad owned by a Moroccan couple where I finally was able to have harira, another Ramadan-tinged treat. I’ve already made a version of it back home but I’m sure I’ll never capture the subtle spicing of this exqusite bowl of soup. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6pT5QJhBUM/

Fez 2: The rooftop terrace of the Riad Salam in Fez offered me a celestial reflexion which I didn’t realize I was having until the next morning after the moonset, when I saw the delicate light of dawn in the opposite direction.  https://www.instagram.com/p/B6ri5oTB5eF/

Marrakesh 1: Wahid, whom I loved teasing by calling him Monsieur GPS, also is an encyclopedia of prospective camera angles and shots. Here he escorted us up to the rooftop terrace of a cafe overlooking the main plaza of Marrakesh, the hallucinogenic Place Jemâa el-Fna. He took the video himself. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6ugeE5B-yW/

Marrakesh 2: A third goal for this trip was a cooking class. At the morning-long session at the Maison arabe we made tagine of chicken with olives and preserved lemons. I rarely like the food I make, eating it at table I mean. But I did eat what I made and will be making it and its many cousin tagines regularly in the future. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6voF2EBKJ2/

Happy 2020: Thoroughly Islamic by religion, Moroccans nonetheless celebrate the New Year. Wahid whatsapped me this across a cafe table on the day itself as we were sadly en route back to Casa. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6yRrR2hZOM/

Kitties of Morocco: This compilation of kitty snaps, severely edited for reasons of space and not including those Nasrin herself took, speak to the many felines of Morocco. There are some very lucky kitties there. Imagine the life of a riad cat. Also, alas, there are many unfortunate ones. A parable, perhaps?  https://www.instagram.com/p/B6z0QgMBk8D/

The Riad Salam Fez: Easily the most spectacular of our abodes on the road was this refurbished and fully renovated five-star in Fez. This one took ten years to restore, opening in 2010. What is a riad? Wiki knows: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moroccan_riad. The Riad Salam, as one can see here, is spectacular. https://www.instagram.com/p/B64J_-YBoUO/

Literary Tangier: I had set as yet another goal a visit to the scenes frequented by Paul Bowles and the US beat and other writers of the fifties, Gore Vidal and Tennessee Williams among them. There is a small wing of the American Legation Museum in Tangier devoted to Bowles, where I snapped this photo and meditated on a slightly older generation’s lives. https://www.instagram.com/p/B69IwzCBa4j/

Chefchouan: The Blue City on the route from Tangier to Fez is a famous site for selfies, which I’ll spare you. Crowds with selfie-sticks jostle for the best place to take pictures of themselves, not always aware of how rude they are being to those who don’t want any people at all in their own photographic mementos. https://www.instagram.com/p/B6_vfU4BgZa/

At the Pottery in Fez: An unexpected treat was a visit to this pottery and mosaic factory outside of Fez. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7CdmGBBbms/

Parting shots of design detail in and around Fez. All good things must come to an end. My archives are full of photos. I would have spent hundreds of dollars on film in the old days – Kodak’s loss, our gain. Memories abound.  I hope they will always remain. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7FD3nih1rr/

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I am planning a more traditional blog text, The Not-So-Sheltering Sky. Coming soon to this site. Stay tuned.